Saturday, December 31, 2011

Silent Night

Here's some pictures of our surf trip before Christmas. Quiet, serene, and calm (but definitely playable), which is much like Christmas is.

Merry Christmas!

Monday, December 12, 2011


In all my dreams
It's never quite as it seems
Never quite as it seems.

Friday, December 9, 2011

Where the blue and white breaks

Some photos of the recent trip to one of my favorite surf spots. Take me back to the place where the blue and white breaks.

Friday, December 2, 2011

Meet Matilda.

I got my Superheadz Fat Lens today, and boy, was it a thrill to finally be able to tinker with it. Putting the film in took me back to the time when technology was fascinatingly simple, and I felt the anticipation of being able to wonder what the pictures will turn out to be like when developed.

The delivery is timely, as tomorrow A and I will be going on a surf trip. I'm praying for sunny weather so I can maximize the camera's and the film's potentials.  I'm excited for the creative projects I'm planning to do with this purchase, which is why I understand why one toy camera is not enough.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

The board chooses its rider.

I'm missing Tia, my Walden funboard. I wish I was able to try her with only a large single fin, and on larger waves. But it was a fair trade, and the single fin short board I'm with now rides beautifully over waves. Sometimes, I think the board chooses its rider.


Sunday, September 25, 2011

Oven baked goodness.

Learning how to bake bread seems far removed from seaworthiness, as the process does not really require much water. But I thought of the ocean while doing this, first because I was practicing on making a really good loaf to bring to Gubat when we go this week, and also since like surfing I had to learn by doing and immersing myself in the activity.

Amidst yesterday's burnt loaf, I was able to make Sesame Seed and Italian today. The aroma is blissfully fresh and wonderful, and I'm excited to bring this for the surf-capade as celebration of getting back in the water and riding the waves.


Wednesday, September 7, 2011

To stoke the fires of the heart and soul.

STOKED: the essence of counterculture soul-surfing was "stoke." To ride a wave was "to stoke the fires of the heart and soul" and hence to be stoked. (Grissim 1982, back cover)

It's been quite some time since I last felt a wave under my feet. Many would say it was only weeks ago, and not that long a time, but for those who are addicted to the sea as I am it felt like eons. 

So the next best thing is to surf the web. The above definition is from one ebook I came across, it is enviable that Australia has so many resources about surfing. At present I am still looking for a copy of this book by Yvon Chouinard: "Let My People Go Surfing." 

 Such a seaworthy set of principles and ideas by one of the greatest soul surfers I have come across. Here's an excerpt:
"Since I had never wanted to be a businessman, I needed a few good reasons to be one. One thing I did not want to change, even if we got serious: Work had to be enjoyable on a daily basis. We all had to come to work on the balls of our feet and go up the stairs two steps at a time. We needed to be surrounded by friends who could dress whatever way they wanted, even be barefoot. We all needed flextime to surf the waves when they were good or ski the powder after a big snowstorm or stay home and take care of a sick child. We needed to blur the distinction between work and play and family."

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Finally found my sea legs!

After three weeks of not getting any waves, Bernice and I finally found ourselves sitting in the lineup of one of the most gorgeous surf spots we have ever been to in the whole east coast of Luzon.


Monday, August 8, 2011

Tracing the Water's Path

Going up mountains is not contradictory to us who revere the ocean. As can be seen in the Quiksilver logo which features "the mountain and the sea," they have a special relationship, a partnership of sorts. And water moves: from the summit to gullies, streams, rivers, flood plains, watersheds, and eventually heading to the open sea. Climbing is a way of tracing the water's path.

Besides, where else to get a better view of the ocean than from up above?


Thursday, July 28, 2011


I didn't think that I would enjoy swimming in an enclosed container (yes, a pool) after months of playing in the ocean, but this brings me back- to years of continuous effort to gain the skills I have now in moving in the water, of friendships and growing up experiences, and to learning discipline, determination, and hard work.

It does not matter where you swim, but the fact that you do and love it makes you seaworthy.


Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Our good friend James Gabriel is a surfboard shaper who resides at Tagaytay which is south of Manila. He is also a Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu practitioner and a yoga enthusiast. We always call him up when the coast of Batangas fires up, and we look forward to seeing him ride the waves with his graceful moves. He is definitely a seaworthy extraordinaire.


Sunday, July 24, 2011


The whole method of surf-riding and surf-fighting, I learned, is one of non-resistance. Dodge the blow that is struck at you. Dive through the wave that is trying to slap you in the face. Sink down, feet first, deep under the surface, and let the big smoker that is trying to smash you go by far overhead. Never be rigid. Relax. Yield yourself to the waters that are ripping and tearing at you. When the undertow catches you and drags you seaward along the bottom, don't struggle against it. If you do, you are liable to be drowned, for it is stronger than you. Yield yourself to that undertow. Swim with it, not against it, and you will find the pressure removed. And, swimming with it, fooling it so that it does not hold you, swim upward at the same time. It will be no trouble at all to reach the surface.- excerpt from Jack London's "The Cruise of the Snark"

This is a wonderful read about Jack London's surfing experience in Hawaii, where he proves his seaworthiness. Read the full text (Surfing: A Royal Sport) here.


Getting artsy

The immense cities lie basking on the beaches of the continent like whales that have taken to the land.-Arnold Toynbee


Saturday, July 23, 2011

Time doesn't matter...

... when I'm in the ocean. I thoroughly enjoy its moods, and revel in the way it can change from one moment to the next. From sunshiny warm golden glows to cloudy cold starkness, this kind of unpredictability is never boring, and rather reminds me of the fact that change happens all the time and we have got to flow, or stagnate. All this while at the line up, seeing the sunlit rolling glassy waves become steep walls of churning dark blue-gray lines.