Wednesday, September 7, 2011

To stoke the fires of the heart and soul.


STOKED: the essence of counterculture soul-surfing was "stoke." To ride a wave was "to stoke the fires of the heart and soul" and hence to be stoked. (Grissim 1982, back cover)

It's been quite some time since I last felt a wave under my feet. Many would say it was only weeks ago, and not that long a time, but for those who are addicted to the sea as I am it felt like eons. 

So the next best thing is to surf the web. The above definition is from one ebook I came across, it is enviable that Australia has so many resources about surfing. At present I am still looking for a copy of this book by Yvon Chouinard: "Let My People Go Surfing." 


 Such a seaworthy set of principles and ideas by one of the greatest soul surfers I have come across. Here's an excerpt:
"Since I had never wanted to be a businessman, I needed a few good reasons to be one. One thing I did not want to change, even if we got serious: Work had to be enjoyable on a daily basis. We all had to come to work on the balls of our feet and go up the stairs two steps at a time. We needed to be surrounded by friends who could dress whatever way they wanted, even be barefoot. We all needed flextime to surf the waves when they were good or ski the powder after a big snowstorm or stay home and take care of a sick child. We needed to blur the distinction between work and play and family."
-B.

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