Thursday, July 28, 2011

Swim.

I didn't think that I would enjoy swimming in an enclosed container (yes, a pool) after months of playing in the ocean, but this brings me back- to years of continuous effort to gain the skills I have now in moving in the water, of friendships and growing up experiences, and to learning discipline, determination, and hard work.

It does not matter where you swim, but the fact that you do and love it makes you seaworthy.

-B

Tuesday, July 26, 2011


Our good friend James Gabriel is a surfboard shaper who resides at Tagaytay which is south of Manila. He is also a Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu practitioner and a yoga enthusiast. We always call him up when the coast of Batangas fires up, and we look forward to seeing him ride the waves with his graceful moves. He is definitely a seaworthy extraordinaire.

-A

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Non-resistence

The whole method of surf-riding and surf-fighting, I learned, is one of non-resistance. Dodge the blow that is struck at you. Dive through the wave that is trying to slap you in the face. Sink down, feet first, deep under the surface, and let the big smoker that is trying to smash you go by far overhead. Never be rigid. Relax. Yield yourself to the waters that are ripping and tearing at you. When the undertow catches you and drags you seaward along the bottom, don't struggle against it. If you do, you are liable to be drowned, for it is stronger than you. Yield yourself to that undertow. Swim with it, not against it, and you will find the pressure removed. And, swimming with it, fooling it so that it does not hold you, swim upward at the same time. It will be no trouble at all to reach the surface.- excerpt from Jack London's "The Cruise of the Snark"

This is a wonderful read about Jack London's surfing experience in Hawaii, where he proves his seaworthiness. Read the full text (Surfing: A Royal Sport) here.


-B

Getting artsy


The immense cities lie basking on the beaches of the continent like whales that have taken to the land.-Arnold Toynbee


-A

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Time doesn't matter...

... when I'm in the ocean. I thoroughly enjoy its moods, and revel in the way it can change from one moment to the next. From sunshiny warm golden glows to cloudy cold starkness, this kind of unpredictability is never boring, and rather reminds me of the fact that change happens all the time and we have got to flow, or stagnate. All this while at the line up, seeing the sunlit rolling glassy waves become steep walls of churning dark blue-gray lines.

-B